The lights on the rack are Warn's new SDB 160's. The lights are aimed for night-time trail running, and illuminate the trailsides very effectively. They are also a dual-beam light, and for gravel roads at night, the high beams are good for throwing light way down the road.
Dixon-Bate recovery points are the best I've found. I have two on the front bumper, and the reason I like them is that I don't have to use a shackle to attatch a strap to the bumper. I can slide the pin through the eye of the strap and voila!, I'm secure! I also have a shackle and safety hook attatched to the cable. The hook is manufactured by Crosby and is no longer available (sigh). True one-handed operation is possible, and again, I can attatch to a tree-strap without the use of a shackle.
|I had damaged the turnsignals on one side of the vehicle, and it was in need of replacement. I got a steal on the Euro signals from British Pacific, and couldn't resist. I like the clear parking lights, they are nice for being able to see with white light, and I put in the larger bulbs so that I can use them during off-roading exercizes at night. One of my pet peeves is the use of high-powered lights when using the winch in the dark. The bright lights ruin your night vision. With the clear parking lights you can still see enough to navigate, but your night vision is saved. I also have IPF H4 lights and 110/130 bulbs.|
|Standard ARB bar, except for the removal of the tow points, addition of the Hi-Lift jack mounts, some Warn lights and the Dixon-Bate. The ax head will be stored on the bumper, and who knows what else.|
|For the Bull-Bar I put the Warn SDB 210's on for the main forward off-roading lights. They are also dual-beam, and are actually street legal on low beam. The bulbs are 90/110 watts. In the background you can see the winch light. The Warn lights, while big and ugly, sure do pack a punch. I like the Warn's better than the PIAA's I replaced them with.|
|The ARB bar is also designed to fit the Warn M12000 and M10000 like a glove. I originally had a 9000 on it, but that required some serious modifications. The 10000 is smoother spooling, better braking and a better winch, in my opinion.|
|By duplicating the aentenna bracket on the opposite side of the bar, we were able to weld L brackets and drill them such that a bolt and wing-nut could affix the jack to the bar. The jack never rattled loose after 4500 miles of hard driving.|
|I searched far and wide for the perfect roof-rack. I couldn't find one, so I designed and had one fabricated to meet my specifications. I like how it turned out, and it's really paid off with the additional load the Falcon can now carry. Go ahead and click on this link, it'll take you to my home page where you can read more about the rack.|
|It seems no matter how great I think a car is, I know I can make it better and will stop at no lengths to prove myself right. We have changed the Falcon quite a bit from stock, the wheel well trim is well documented on my site also. Click to see more.|
|It's nothing spactacular, but my aentenna mount is permanent to the vehicle and is mounted to the inner lip of the engine bay. The aentenna is removable with a quick release. The CB inside is a Uniden 520XL that is the standard for the Rover club in the Pacific Northwest.|
You can see a detailed photograph and read some text about each modification.